If you've never put oil on the carriage rail, you should. If you have but you can't remember when, do it again. Put 4-5 drops of baby oil or 3 in 1 oil on the rail that the carriage rides on. Its a round metal rod that runs all the way across the printer -- under the cover, of course! 

After you put the oil on you can run a print, a demo print or just press the FORM FEED AND CUT button.This moves the carriage over the length of the machine and gets fresh lubricant under the bushings on both the carriage and the cutter. 

After you apply the oil and run the printer, you may see a build up of dust and debris on the side of the carriage -- wipe it off with a paper towel.-- its a good thing, that collection was under the bushings of the carriage and is now gone! Your printer will run quieter and will be less likely to throw error messages that don't mean anything!

If your old cartridges (or even new ones) won't print 
here's some things to try;
.

FIRST -- ALWAYS CLEAN THE CONTACTS IN THE CARTRIDGE SLOT -- they often have ink on them and that just doesn't work -- they need to be clean! Also, clean the slot contacts on the carriage where you place the cartridges. (see photo)

1) Hold under running hot water, shake it and look for two lines of ink when pressed to a damp folded paper towel. (Of course it is waterproof, it has ink in it!)

2) Soak for an hour in a quart of hot water with a hearty squirt of liquid dish soap and a quarter cup of ammonia - then shake hard and look for two parallel lines on a damp folded paper towel.

3) Fold up 4 or 5 very wet paper towels until you have at least an inch tall gob of towel. Press down slowly and firmly then release slowly and the towels will create suction as they return to their original depth.

4) If all else fails try smearing a bit of saliva down the cartridge contacts and snap into place. It sounds dumb. However, many have found this to work. My theory is that the spit seals small cracks in the microscopic contact wires that cause the cartridge to fire ink. 

​5) Try rubbing the contact strip in the cartridge slot and on the back of the cartridge with a dollar bill. Others report this has worked...I haven't tried it yet.

Sometimes replacing the trailing cable (big white ribbon that follows the carriage) is what is needed for your cartridges to fire ink out of all the microscopic jets. 

​

Jeff from Henderson MN called this morning and said that although I'd put a new trailing cable in his Designjet 430 last year, the cartridge light was blinking and he was thinking of sending his guy Randy to me with the plotter. It's about a three hour drive so Randy stepped up and offered a possible solution:

Rub the cartridge contacts with a dollar bill.
Randy says he often uses this to get better performance from spark plugs.

IT WORKED!

Snapping the cartridge back into the plotter the light went out and the plotter started printing!

Give that Randy a raise!!!

From HP: 
Access the settings window in Devices and Printers to select settings that apply to all your print jobs.

1. Search Windows for 'printers', then click Devices and Printers in the search results.
2. Right-click the icon for your printer, then click Printer properties.
   ​

3. Click the Advanced tab, then click Printing Defaults.
Figure : Click Printing Defaults on the Advanced tab in Printer Properties
​4. Change any settings you want as defaults in the Printing Defaults window, then click OK.

 I was working on getting a 450c Designjet refurbished today. New belt, cleaned up inside and out, fresh spittoon and oiled the rail. Thinking all was ok, I put the covers back on and got ready to print. BOOGERS! The LOAD + ALIGN + MEDIA lights were on and I wasn't sure what it was that was causing this.

​Looking in the service manual I found a number of things it could be. I decided to try the easiest thing and wiped down the encoder strip with a soft damp paper towel. Don't Use Alcohol If You Try This - just warm water! Wiped it all the way across from far left to far right. As I was wiping I noticed a couple of ink smudges on the encoder strip. They came right up on the paper towel.

Then with the plotter turned off I moved the carriage to the middle of the machine and restarted it. This lets the carriage "refind" itself with the clean encoder strip which is the GPS of the plotter. It tells the carriage where to be from left to right. IT WORKED!

​Below you can see the suggestions from the service manual.

HP has an amazingly simple little app that you can download and use with 500. 800, Z series and T series plotters. It is the HP Instant Printing Utility 3

It allows you to drag your file to the open application and click PRINT and it just simply prints....easy peasy.

It works with these operating systems:

Microsoft Windows 7 (32-bit)
Microsoft Windows Vista (32-bit)
Microsoft Windows Vista (64-bit)
Microsoft Windows 7 (64-bit)
Microsoft Windows 8 (32-bit)
Microsoft Windows 8 (64-bit)
Microsoft Windows Server 2012
Microsoft Windows 8.1 (32-bit)
Microsoft Windows 8.1 (64-bit)
Microsoft Windows 10 (32-bit)
Microsoft Windows 10 (64-bit)

Hello from England - and thanks for the blog

My question relates to oiling the rails when installing a new belt.

I took my 1998 2500CP plotter apart, took out the old belt, which was worn but not completely broken (No small job).

I put a new belt in and the carriage juddered as it went down the rails - it would not run smoothly - but only when under tension from the new belt.
I tried a few things, but in the end had to put the old belt back on - which works fine - so it probably wasn't an installation issue.

The (friendly) vendor is worried that I may have used the wrong lubricating oil.

Can you help with a simple guide to the best oils and grease to buy?

If you watch plotter servicing videos about changing belts etc , done by apparently specialist plotter guys, the impression given is that many light oils (including sewing machine oil), are OK. Some say do not use WD40 - except on the belt, according to one!

- and you too seem to suggest any light oil would be fine.

On the other hand - a HP official lubricating and cleaning video shows a product DB2-68 from the service kit.
Googling that I found an ebay seller wanting $275 for a bottle - mamma mia, can't be right - and why is the picture Photoshopped?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DB2-68-LUBRICANT-OIL-4-FL-FOR-HP-DESIGNJET-PRINTERS-GENUINE-USA-/321615581166

My 1998 2500CP has printer plodded on for many years with no fresh lubrication and the old belt now works OK again.
- so you would not think it was that fussy about lubrication

Incidentally, I probably should put some more of that pink silicone grease on the plastic gears too. 
That product seems cloaked in mystery too and I suspect that one of the many third-party silicon greases would be fine.

A small and simple list of suitable compatible types of silicone grease and oil would be good! 

Many thanks, Dominic


For more than six years I have exclusively used mineral oil (also known here as Baby Oil) for lubricating the rails. I have never had a problem with anyone over oiling and never had a problem with the rails drying. Sometimes when the carriage has dirt under the bushings I have taken a syringe and needle and directly squirted mineral oil 1-3 cc's under the bushing and then moved the carriage back and forth and then done it again. This will often cause old dust and dirt to show up on the rail as I move the carriage. If it does, I keep repeating until I don't see more dirt coming out from under the bushings. 

They are right when they say don't use WD40...it turns to snot on the rails and makes an awful mess. You CAN use triflow or sewing machine oil. HP will sell you rail oil for $40 USD per ounce. But if you are going to throw away that money, send it to me and I'll sell you baby oil for that amount!

When I first get and old machine, I strip it down and clean up the inside of old dust and ink and then I remove the old belt and use a dental pick to take out black residue on the motor gear and on the tensioner wheel (if it is the style with three grooves around.) If you don't do this the gear teeth on the motor can't smoothly move the belt.

Next I empty the spittoon, if there is one and replace it adding a "Mr Clean Magic Eraser Sponge" as it will absorb lots of ink and keep it from overflowing if someone moves the machine in the wrong direction while relocating it in the future.

Now I put the new belt on and put 5-7 drops of oil on the rail and vigorously move the carriage all the way to the right and all the way to the left. I also put a few extra drops in front of the cutter on the rail and manually slide the cutter all the way across and back. After all this I wipe off the rail with a paper towel and look to see if there's lots of black residue, if there is I start over again with putting more oil on the rail and moving the carriage and cutter. I keep repeating until the rail is clean and nothing shows on the paper towel and then I add oil drops again and call it complete!

These machines are so sensitive to any friction on the rail that this cannot get too much oil or too much attention! 

The white plastic gears don't really need anything...I've never seen any wear on these. However, I always scrape the pink grease off the edges and put it back on the gear surface as a good will gesture to the machine! But you can use any third party silicone grease. I've also used silicone plumbers grease.

I see these old machines like classic cars and give them so much attention when I'm rehabilitating and refurbishing them. They are like beautiful old ships and almost as big! I call them "she" just like they were boats...and when they don't work they are just big boat anchors!!!

The only other thing that I can think of that might cause juddering/shuddering would be if you put the bushings for the carriage on backwards. I've only seen that once before and it didn't move as smoothly as it should.

I get lots of questions from people who want to use their HP Designjet to print on poly banners and make decals with self stick adhesives. HP made a great document that covers the more modern Designjets. Here's the link.